Santorini: The Wine Island Hiding Behind Those Blue Domes

Santorini: The Wine Island Hiding Behind Those Blue Domes

When most people think of Santorini (whose official name is actually Thira), they usually picture whitewashed villages clinging to dramatic cliffs, cobalt blue domes, winding little streets, and sunsets that seem almost too beautiful to be real.

And yes. Santorini absolutely deserves its reputation as one of Greece’s most spectacular islands – literally referred to as the “jewel of the Cyclades.”

But there is another side to Santorini that doesn’t get nearly as much attention.

Wine. Lots and lots of wine.

Did you know Santorini is home to around 18 wineries? That’s a lot given it’s only around 28 square miles. (Psssssst…There’s a list at the bottom of this post along with a Google map I have pre-plotted for you, *wink wink*)

Even more fascinating, Santorini is considered one of the world’s oldest continuously cultivated wine-growing regions. Grapes have been grown on the island for thousands of years, and the vineyards you see today are the result of generations of winemakers adapting to one of the most challenging growing environments imaginable.

A Vineyard Unlike Almost Anything You’ve Ever Seen

Santorini’s landscape is beautiful, but it is not exactly what you would call vineyard-friendly.

The island is incredibly windy. Rainfall is scarce. Summers are hot and dry. And the soil is largely volcanic, made up of layers of ash, pumice, lava and volcanic rock.

So how do you grow grapes in a place like that?

You get creative.

Instead of training their vines vertically on trellises like you might see in California, France or Italy, Santorini’s grape growers use a traditional method called kouloura.

The vines are carefully trained into low, circular, basket-like shapes that sit close to the ground.

Think less Napa Valley vineyard and more grapevine curled into a little protective wreath.

And there is a very good reason for it.

Those low-growing baskets help protect the grapes from Santorini’s fierce winds. The grapes grow inside the basket, shielded from the worst of the elements, while the vine itself spreads across the volcanic soil.

It’s an ingenious solution to an incredibly difficult environment.

Wait… They Don’t Water the Vines?

Here’s where Santorini’s vineyards get even more impressive. They aren’t irrigated in the traditional sense.

Santorini receives very little rainfall, so the vines have adapted to survive with remarkably little water. The island’s traditional vineyards are dry-farmed, relying primarily on natural moisture from rainfall, humidity, morning dew and moisture carried in from the surrounding Aegean Sea.

The volcanic soil also plays an important role. Its composition allows it to retain what little moisture is available and provides an unusual growing environment for the vines.

The result is an incredibly low-yielding vineyard.

And while that might sound like a bad thing, in wine, sometimes less really is more.

Fewer grapes mean the vines can put tremendous concentration into the fruit they do produce.

And Then There’s the Volcano

To really understand Santorini wine, you have to understand Santorini itself.

Santorini isn’t technically a typical volcanic island. The island we see today is essentially the remaining rim of a massive volcanic caldera created by one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history.

That eruption dramatically reshaped the landscape and left behind layers of volcanic material that now make up Santorini’s famous soils.

There is very little traditional clay or limestone here. Instead, you find volcanic ash, pumice and rocks formed by ancient eruptions.

And that volcanic terroir has a huge influence on the wines.

One of the most interesting things about wine is that it isn’t simply about the grape variety. Climate, soil, elevation, farming practices and geology all influence the final wine.

Santorini is basically one giant geological experiment in your wine glass.

Meet Santorini’s Star: Assyrtiko

If you only remember one grape from Santorini, make it Assyrtiko. And full disclosure, this is my absolute favorite white wine, so I am a bit biased.

This is the island’s signature white grape and one of Greece’s most distinctive varieties.

Assyrtiko produces wines that are typically bright, crisp, high in acidity and intensely mineral-driven, with flavors that can range from citrus and green apple to stone fruit and subtle saline or volcanic notes.

And that acidity?

Oh, baby.

It makes Assyrtiko an absolute dream with food.

Fresh seafood. Grilled octopus. Oysters. Greek salads. Grilled fish. Lemon-drenched vegetables. Fresh feta.

Basically, if it came out of the Aegean Sea or was grilled somewhere overlooking it, there’s a pretty good chance Assyrtiko is going to be very happy sitting next to it.

And after a warm Mediterranean afternoon?

Even happier.

But Don’t Stop at Assyrtiko

While Assyrtiko is the star of the show, Santorini’s wine culture doesn’t end there.

You’ll also find other traditional Greek varieties, including Aidani and Athiri, which are sometimes blended with Assyrtiko or used to produce different styles of wine.

And then there’s Vinsanto.

Despite the name, Vinsanto isn’t simply “wine from San…”

Okay, I’m kidding.

But it is worth knowing that Santorini’s Vinsanto is a traditional sweet wine made primarily from sun-dried grapes. The grapes are allowed to dry in the sun, concentrating their sugars and flavors before fermentation and aging.

The result is a rich, complex dessert wine that can be absolutely spectacular with cheese, nuts or dessert.

So if you’re visiting Santorini and someone suggests a Vinsanto tasting, say yes.

Wine Tasting With a View? Yes, Please.

One of my favorite things about wine travel is that the experience isn’t only about what is in your glass.

It’s where you drink it.

And Santorini has some seriously unfair scenery.

Imagine sitting at a winery overlooking the caldera, volcanic cliffs dropping toward the brilliant blue Aegean, with a chilled glass of Assyrtiko in your hand.

That’s not just wine tasting.

That’s a friggin’ vacation!

Many Santorini wineries offer tastings that allow visitors to learn about the island’s unusual viticulture while sampling several local wines. Some also pair their wines with local food, making it an excellent way to experience the island beyond the typical sightseeing circuit.

And that’s exactly why I love incorporating experiences like this into travel planning.

Because yes, you absolutely should see Oia and wander those gorgeous streets, camera in hand, taking approximately 7,000 photos of those iconic blue domes. But you also don’t want your entire Santorini experience to be spent elbowing your way through crowds just to capture the exact same shot as everyone else.

Get out into the vineyards.

Taste the wine.

Talk to the winemakers.

Learn why these crazy little basket-shaped vines exist in the first place.

And suddenly, Santorini becomes more than a beautiful backdrop.

It becomes a place with history, geology, culture, agriculture and a wine tradition that is unlike almost anywhere else in the world.

So, the Next Time You See Those Blue Domes…

Remember that there’s an entire wine culture hiding behind them.

Santorini’s vineyards are a perfect example of how travel can be so much more interesting when you look beyond the obvious.

The island’s famous sunsets may get all the Instagram attention, but thousands of years of winemaking are happening just beyond the postcards.

And if you’re a wine lover?

You may want to make room in your Santorini itinerary for a vineyard or two.

Because there is nothing quite like sipping an Assyrtiko grown in ancient volcanic soil while looking out over the caldera that helped create it.

YAMAS! (Greek for “cheers!”)